Support your product claim by understanding the release of volatiles after application on skin or hair with the help of SENSENET experts.
The Challenge
- Some capillary products are characterized by unpleasant odours during their application and are not accepted on the global market. T
- The main goal for cosmetics producers is to improve the global perception of capillary products.
Our strategy
- Molecular emissions determination of raw capillary formulas by GC-Sniffing using micro-chambers to identify and characterize compounds generating malodours.
- Evaluation of the efficiency of perfumes to cover malodours. Capillary products were applied on strands of hairs. Headspace was then sampled using a Scent-sampler and sensory evaluation was carry out by a trained panel on the parameters: intensity, hedonic tone and odour description.
Results
- Step 1, Three raw formulas were assessed at this step.
The chemical identification by GC-MS has shown notable concentrations of sulfured compounds. The
olfactogram has confirmed that these compounds mainly participate in odour perception of products. The product A was the less emissive formula, so it was selected for further testing.
- Step 2, Two different fragrances (masking 1 and masking 2), developed to cover malodour due to sulfured compounds and ammonia perception, were introduced in one capillary product formula (Formula A).
Both fragrances improve the hedonic tone of products significantly. Masking product 1 has more floral notes, but it covers less the sulfur notes. However, with both masking products pungent notes (ammonia) are still perceived.
Under test conditions, the Formula A + masking 2 offered the better olfactive perception, but as pungent notes were still perceived, the producer decided to continue working on the masking product to improve its global perception.
Benefits
Firstly, the evaluation by GC-Sniffing of the capillary formulas has helped the producer to understand which compounds were odourous and how they participate in the global odour. This understanding has allowed him to develop perfumes adapted to cover specifically these malodours.
Then the evaluation of perfumed products by sensory analysis with a trained panel has allowed confirming an improvement of the global perception of the product.
